I was woken at just gone midnight by a nightclub a few building across for ours and the thumping dush-dush noise kept me awake until one when it subsided into the random drunken shouts of revelers finding their way home. I think last time when I got so irate at the cricketers arms it was because I knew that when I went home I'd have the exact same thing to content with and this was after all meant to be a holiday. So once I'd dropped off I slept until the seagulls decided to start their own party with the dawn. Bloody things are just vermin plain and simple of and gave my sister in law whiplash (Long story).
Once I decided to rise I found it was another gorgeous morning, which is becoming a habit for Cornwall but one I remain very happy with. We had an excellent breakfast whilst the couple on the table behind had an intense but very quiet domestic about his mother. (Side note: is it still called a domestic if you have it in a hotel?) The argument reminded me of a theory I've heard many many times. It goes something along the lines of 'It doesn't matter where you go on holiday Llandudno or Borneo you will still be there. You're not a different person when you go on holiday you'll still be the same grumpy/happy personal you always are, you'll just be on holiday."
Anyway we packed up and headed out through what I thought were the narrowest roads you could find on mainland Britain... I was soon to learn my elementary mistake as we headed for the most southwesterly point of the UK.
In every way that the Eden Project succeeds in being educational without being money grabbing, Lands End fails. It is by some margin one of the most over commercialised tourist traps I've ever encountered.
The Good:
A short list but the views are spectacular,the cliffs poised as if they were divers frozen in time before plunging into the oceans. There is a artist's galley that has some stunning works in it and the pasty I had was rather tasty.
The Bad:
Overcrowded with the kind of people who wear t-shirts saying "The drinks are on me as I'll be on you later." screaming kids being dragged to see something they don't understand by parents who feel they should be going to these kind of educational places but not knowing why. The Landsend brand is available on everything from sweatshirts to jewellery to fudge but not one piece of tat shows the real beauty of the place.
The Ugly:
Those bloody seagulls followed us from Fowey I swear!! I'm sure I saw one with a tattoo saying 'Big Steve'.
Luckily Landsend-land is on the south coast path (yes that again) so we walked a fair ways along it away from the unwashed masses and it felt like a holiday again.
It was Ems turn to drive so we pointed the prow towards Zennor and found that in the same way that major arteries lead to blood vessels lead to capillaries the further south you go the smaller the lanes become until you reach the tip of the country and you can barely squeeze one car through!
Luckily it was only a few miles to the next resting spot The Guarnards Head named for the spit of land that juts out in the ocean. its a beautiful spot, really quiet and serene. Quite pricey but this was after all a holiday.
We took a wander down to the coast past near inaccessible houses to the end of the world or so it seemed the sunlight streamed down casting glittering reflections on a royal blue sea. This was the Cornwall we had come for. it felt like we were the only people for miles around in the baking afternoon of an endless summers day. We meandered back to the pub which featured four excellent ales including the by now ubiquitous tribute and had a rather masterchef style meal of delicious PLATES OF FOOD which were nevertheless a touch small.
The room was also on the small side but very comfy and with a sea view to die for. even the cupboard converted to an en suite couldn't ruin it, especially as there were books in every nook and cranny of this superbly literary pub.
We settled in for a night of reading and alcohol with a song in our hearts. Its the only pub we've stayed in so far that doesn't seem to have a telly anywhere. WOOT!
No comments:
Post a Comment